India: scientific approach to a mystery

I am already at home in Russia, yet there is so much more to write about India. I'll continue posting here, so keep an eye on this blog. I set up my old-and-new blog about Russia HERE - you may also check out that one now and then. Also, slowly but surely I am uploading the pics from the travels on which I haven't posted yet at the upgraded (hurra!) Yahoo.

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Location: Russia

Thursday, March 16, 2006

Colorful Holi

Playing with colors was not a new concept to me: a month ago I got a decent clue during one family function at the wedding. The clue came along with my favorite bra hopelessly colored, a strange pink spot on my nose that did not go for a couple of days, and shifted concept of old-clothes-to-be-used-for-such occasions. Yet, playing was fun: bird flu was not severe at that time, so eggs were flying in the room and crashing against the heads of those trying to escape; playing with colors is fun by definition; and hassling some people on the plea of game might be a smart way of revenge.

That was a rehearsal before Holi as far as I can see now. Holi is a huge festival heavily celebrated in the North India and Nepal. However, not many people would be able to explain the rationale behind all those festivities. Notwithstanding, all the festive attributes would be there and would be fully enjoyed. Well, Wikipedia tells the story that many younger Indians fail to reproduce. A few stories, in fact. Holi is a holiday with religious background where the Lord Krishna is involved. According to some he did not like the dark color of the skin he was born with so he asked to paint him with colors. And so do people on Holy. Another more elaborate story tells us about Holika who was burn in the fire to save life of a young man. One may wonder about the relevance of the colors still. Anyway let’s see how it works in practice.

Two days beforehand people start playing. Locals do not wear nice clothes anymore as they know… actually, quite the opposite – as they do not know what to expect. Kids start throwing balloons filled with water on absent-minded pedestrians, smart teenagers pour out colored water in the open windows of busses, etc. But not to the extent it happens on the day itself.

At work we had a symbolic celebrations the day before – had some food together, some traditional Holi sweets (shaped as huge Siberian-style Russian ravioli) and put some colors on each other. Silky gulal powder of good quality is easy to remove from the clothes, but still tends to stay on fare skin ;o)





Prepared for worse I put on the crappiest clothes I was extra-careful when traveling from work that day. Many people were getting home with some colors on their clothes and faces – Holi kicked off. Nothing adventurous happened until I went to Lajpat Nagar market to buy some colors myself. I was shot with water balloons: 3 missed the target, 2 hit me. No blue spots, though. While I was buying colors some more water balloons were targeted at me, but never reached. I smiled when the second hit reached me. And men at the stall smiled back – they looked wondering if this foreign girl would be playing tomorrow.

My colleagues gave me a number of precepts. Do not go out alone that day. Do not go to the main road – no one would even hesitate to attack you. Do not drink bhan (drink that contains a small amount or marihuana) – a popular among young people swill for Holi. Well, what else to do then?. Neither of the mentioned I did – good girl. I wonder however… wonder if I’ve missed out then... Might have to get back next year to check out ;o)

A friend of ours, Kartik, brought Anya and me to his house in Noida (a city nearby Delhi). A bunch of his friends came over: I went to bed very early but people stayed till 5 am, so no wonder where were no early Holi for us next day.





Kartik’s grandmother woke us up – she appeared with all her face painted. So unserious this lady still looked very natural.



We greeted each other with putting some colors on each other’s faces. In advance, I was grieving there is no way to carry camera on me so that to document the amazing happening to come. I put my cell only ;o) in a plastic zip-lock and sighed…. As soon as Kartik himself woke up, still with hangover and very sleepy,



called up the rest of the bunch and in half an hour we were heading to the friends of the friends. Control panel in the car was covered with plastic bags, the seats – with textile covers… We hardy got into the car when someone opened a bottle of Smirnoff, mixed it with Coke and generously distributed the drink around. So, we started visiting houses of friends of friends of… with bunches of young people playing Holy. So, what does actually playing imply? Pour over people small and large amount of gulal powder, play with water pistols, spread water colors on people’s faces, pour out water on people from buckets and hoses; some people would lose their pants, some would sing and dance, some would drink hard, some would play with mud… Options are there for those who let their imagination free.

Not at least, I am simply admiring the bravado of young guys and it deserved all the attention and more. 2 of them are riding a motorbike. The one behind carries a water pistol and is pretending to shot. He is so young and so serious that you laugh for the sake of it only. Then he turns with his back to the driver and keep shooting. Another time we drive in a jeep packed with people, two guys on one side and one on the other are hanging outside (not leaning over the widow, but literally placed outside). They easily ask for a smoke and then are smoking all the way. On the hood of the car there is another one who just spread himself over there as there is nothing to even stick to or hold for him there. He is also unconstrainedly smoking and then starts dancing. On the top of all this, our energetic driver stands up and leans over the window and dances too…. We play Rang de Basanty tracks as everyone does nowadays and shoulders start shimming once you hear Punjabi beats. The road is empty and we do not drive fast, but still… Having got into the mood me and Anya played imaginary police fight – running with guns, hiding behind the cars, me wounded and splashed on a car.. Plus now and then dancing on the streets and salutation the passing by cars. Happy Holi!!!!









Noida was pretty empty as many people were done by the time we started. Otherwise, people mainly celebrated in houses, gardens and houses. Not at least, Noida has very decent residential areas – not like Lajpat Nagar market where your neighbors would kill you with water balloons. So, no activities on the road. Just now and then painted velo-rickshaws would pass through.

Many people, painted to the bones, soaking wet to the very underwear, intoxicated to the subconsciousness, tired to death, do not live long that day. Somehow it was not that hard for us not only to survive, but even go out the same night. And even have fun. Lots of fun – as much as we could grab with our still pinky hands.











It takes a while for color to go – I wonder how long this while would be – and in the meanwhile I am showing off with my pinky hair. For one time sake, truly pinky Kanak! ;o)

3 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

wow, this holy-thing really looks fun!

4:07 am  
Blogger Brian Houlihan said...

I like your blog. You really get a feeling of your life as a woman in the here and now of India. And I think you look cute with pink hair and face.

Hardguy

2:13 am  
Blogger Olga Tikhonova said...

thank you so much, Brian. Happy I manage to convey my experiences in the way people get interested. Pink hair is cute for a while, but if u cannot wash the color away for weeks after - becomes a little bit of hassle ;o)

11:53 am  

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