Spying on Orissan temples-2
Visiting ancient temples in Bhubaneswar felt like an orientation exercise when you, weaponed with a map and a compass, navigate the town and try to locate the object in question. Yet, even if you succeed, there is no guarantee you are allowed in. So, the major temple I nearly walked in without knowing cannot be visited by non-Hindus. Yet, you are allowed to take pictures from a platform and then hassled for donation. Not everyone is equal in front of god, by any money bizarrely go for his sake....
The temples appeared preserved to a varying degree - some being just a mass of bare bricks, some with untouched by time and people fine carvings; some in sort of use attended by half-naked priests, some without a deity and therefore serving as a purely touristic attraction; some well-attended and surrounded by the beautiful gardens, some abandoned at the backyard of an odd house; yet all are still visited the Indian families invariably removing their shoes at the doorstep of even empty temples and very sought after by the few in number tourists coming to Bhubaneswar. The latter, supposedly urban city (capital of Orissa) but still looking rurally relaxed with all its palm trees, men wearing doti and riding rusting bikes.. strangely incorporates the temples, disperced around the city, in the modern landscape and lifestyle.
The Sun Temple in Konark, one of world's wonders, according to Mark Twain and a piece of World Heritage, according to a sign nearby, celebrates the God of Sun and dates back to the 13th century. Its massive construction (only the porch is preserved and it rises to 39 m, the main tower used to be 60 m high) is built in the shape of a war chariot with 12 huge wheels sculptured on either side of the temple.
Yet, my visit to the Sun Temple was not particularly fortunate. A 10-minute discussion and demonstration of the relevant documents at the ticket counter did not win me a 10-rupee Indian ticket. The authorities to appeal to were not there either. I walked around the temple, taking pictures and examining the possibilities for jumping down to the temple ground. At some point the wall seemed lower (a bit more than my height) and I jumped. But was quickly spotted by 3 non-cooperative type elderly men who immediately gave me up to a watchman. I explained the matter to the chap and retold him the dialogue at the counter, trying to appeal to his pity (I am paying 100 rs for my hotel, so how on earth can I afford to pay 250 Rs for a monument). He asked what sort of certification I have got at hand. I gave him my pass... He walked me out of the gate and left socializing with women construction workers outside... Olga, Olga... 1 year in India spent in vain... Quick response and X-rupee note between the pages of the pass could have been the proof of my residence status... Expelled back to Russia!
As for Jagannath temple in Puri I knew beforehand I could not go in as a non-Hindu. Yet, I was attracted by the chance to see Puri beach and be closer to the funny trinity. So, I went... It was written in my guidebook that I can spy on the temple from a nearby library. An hour of rambling among the stalls with prasad, sweets, strings, figures of Lord Jagannath in any size and form of execution, socializing with people also waiting for the library to open (this is how I got to know that Russians are very much known here due to their particular interest in the mineral resources that Orissa is rich in... as if we do not have enough of ours... and an elderly man asked me if my father was an engineer... he-he... who was not at those times? ;o) and... eventually... pam-pam.. 10 Rs of donation bought me the access to the roof of the library.The library was a decent masterpiece itself with its old British wooden book-cases.. dusty and untouched for ages.. and two old men reading newspapers at the spacious reading room. The view over the temple did not gave any insights, but a couple of ok pictures. I was not satisfied. The elderly man I made friends with told me that I can see the statues in the Water Temple, so where I headed. 25 people got around me trying to find out the truth about the Water Temple and one of them brought me there. The trinity was there indeed, about 1.2 - 1.5 m high, but clearly no pictures... I mean - the statues are fun for me, but hei, they are deities in principle... No wonder those non-Hindus are not allowed inside... What a disrespect! Even the young handsome half-naked priest behaving too freely for his role was of no help here... On the way to this one I spotted a small sanctuary guarded by an old women in a worn-out white cotton saree without a blouse or a petticoat. Her appearance and asthmatic breathing was horrifying. My small donation yet bought me some minutes with the sweet trinity (so...carefully cherished... just like babies at the altar... you must see them...) and an eventual picture.
The temples appeared preserved to a varying degree - some being just a mass of bare bricks, some with untouched by time and people fine carvings; some in sort of use attended by half-naked priests, some without a deity and therefore serving as a purely touristic attraction; some well-attended and surrounded by the beautiful gardens, some abandoned at the backyard of an odd house; yet all are still visited the Indian families invariably removing their shoes at the doorstep of even empty temples and very sought after by the few in number tourists coming to Bhubaneswar. The latter, supposedly urban city (capital of Orissa) but still looking rurally relaxed with all its palm trees, men wearing doti and riding rusting bikes.. strangely incorporates the temples, disperced around the city, in the modern landscape and lifestyle.
The Sun Temple in Konark, one of world's wonders, according to Mark Twain and a piece of World Heritage, according to a sign nearby, celebrates the God of Sun and dates back to the 13th century. Its massive construction (only the porch is preserved and it rises to 39 m, the main tower used to be 60 m high) is built in the shape of a war chariot with 12 huge wheels sculptured on either side of the temple.
Yet, my visit to the Sun Temple was not particularly fortunate. A 10-minute discussion and demonstration of the relevant documents at the ticket counter did not win me a 10-rupee Indian ticket. The authorities to appeal to were not there either. I walked around the temple, taking pictures and examining the possibilities for jumping down to the temple ground. At some point the wall seemed lower (a bit more than my height) and I jumped. But was quickly spotted by 3 non-cooperative type elderly men who immediately gave me up to a watchman. I explained the matter to the chap and retold him the dialogue at the counter, trying to appeal to his pity (I am paying 100 rs for my hotel, so how on earth can I afford to pay 250 Rs for a monument). He asked what sort of certification I have got at hand. I gave him my pass... He walked me out of the gate and left socializing with women construction workers outside... Olga, Olga... 1 year in India spent in vain... Quick response and X-rupee note between the pages of the pass could have been the proof of my residence status... Expelled back to Russia!
As for Jagannath temple in Puri I knew beforehand I could not go in as a non-Hindu. Yet, I was attracted by the chance to see Puri beach and be closer to the funny trinity. So, I went... It was written in my guidebook that I can spy on the temple from a nearby library. An hour of rambling among the stalls with prasad, sweets, strings, figures of Lord Jagannath in any size and form of execution, socializing with people also waiting for the library to open (this is how I got to know that Russians are very much known here due to their particular interest in the mineral resources that Orissa is rich in... as if we do not have enough of ours... and an elderly man asked me if my father was an engineer... he-he... who was not at those times? ;o) and... eventually... pam-pam.. 10 Rs of donation bought me the access to the roof of the library.The library was a decent masterpiece itself with its old British wooden book-cases.. dusty and untouched for ages.. and two old men reading newspapers at the spacious reading room. The view over the temple did not gave any insights, but a couple of ok pictures. I was not satisfied. The elderly man I made friends with told me that I can see the statues in the Water Temple, so where I headed. 25 people got around me trying to find out the truth about the Water Temple and one of them brought me there. The trinity was there indeed, about 1.2 - 1.5 m high, but clearly no pictures... I mean - the statues are fun for me, but hei, they are deities in principle... No wonder those non-Hindus are not allowed inside... What a disrespect! Even the young handsome half-naked priest behaving too freely for his role was of no help here... On the way to this one I spotted a small sanctuary guarded by an old women in a worn-out white cotton saree without a blouse or a petticoat. Her appearance and asthmatic breathing was horrifying. My small donation yet bought me some minutes with the sweet trinity (so...carefully cherished... just like babies at the altar... you must see them...) and an eventual picture.
posted by Olga Tikhonova | 6:09 pm
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